One common source of air leakage in a home is through recessed light fixtures, otherwise known as can lights. They may look nice and illuminate well, but they’re a great conduit for conditioned air to leave the building envelope.
One way to improve home heating and cooling efficiency is to eliminate the passage of air through the recessed lights. The general idea is to cover and seal the lights, which I decided to do with a specialized insulation barrier called CanCoverIt that I sealed into place with spray foam insulation.
Continue reading “Part V: Cover and Seal Recessed Lighting to Save Energy”
Chimneys are a great conduit for removing smoke and gases from your house, but they’re also notorious for allowing conditioned air to escape to the outside via the chase that surrounds them.
If that weren’t enough of a concern, they’re also fire hazards when carelessly insulated with materials that aren’t properly fire-rated.
Fear not, you can resolve both issues with a little know-how and the right type of materials.
Continue reading “Part IV: Air Seal and Insulate your Chimney to Save Money”
There are a lot of tasks to do before adding extra insulation to an attic, especially in an older home. They vary from the easy to the onerous (looking at you attic baffles) and are even more of a pain to complete when the lighting is poor.
To improve the lighting in the attic I stapled a couple of lengths of LED strip lights to the underside of the ridge board. The strips are only plugged into an extension cord while I am working. They can also be removed when I finish insulating the attic, if I choose to do so.
Continue reading “Part III: Illuminate your Attic with LED Lights”
I have spent a lot of time elbow deep in blown-in insulation in my attic, so I am well acquainted with the proper attire needed to get work done up there.
The key piece of advice is to be prepared for the hostile work conditions by covering yourself up. You won’t like being up there, so you should dress in a way that lends itself to efficient work.
Buy these items ahead of time or regret it when you’ve got fiberglass lung and you’re itching all over!
Continue reading “Part II: What to Wear When Working with Blown-in Insulation”
Our 1961 bi-level house had a reasonable amount of blown-in fiberglass insulation in the attic when we moved in. This surprised us because homes from this era often aren’t well insulated, although it’s possible a previous owner added the insulation more recently. Regardless, we were pleasantly surprised to have nearly a foot of blown-in fiberglass in our attic.
Unfortunately, even though we had nearly an R-value of 30, it wasn’t evenly distributed due to some large gaps caused by previous home improvement projects. We also had no air sealing between the attic and the conditioned rooms below, which was an even bigger issue for us.
Due to these circumstances I decided to air seal our attic and blow in additional loose fill fiberglass insulation. What followed was nearly a year of intermittent preparation, although your experience and requirements will certainly vary! I only worked in the attic when the temperature was comfortable, which severely limited the times I could get work done.
Continue reading “Part I: How to Reduce Heating Bills with DIY Attic Insulation”
A good way to find insulation gaps in your home is with a thermal infrared imaging camera. In the past these were very expensive, but they’re a lot cheaper now, especially if you don’t mind owning a less powerful model.
For my needs, the FLIR ONE for iOS hits the mark. It’s inexpensive and has a detailed enough resolution to measure the temperature variances in my walls and ceiling.
Continue reading “Diagnose Insulation Gaps with FLIR ONE Thermal Infrared Camera”